
Film ::. Black and White film developer's formulas
related to various film types.
Paper ::. Black and White paper developer's
formulas related to various paper types.
Toners ::. Black and White paper toners.
SAFETY TIPS WHILE MIXING YOUR OWN
CHEMICALS ::.
::. The chemicals in the various formulas
should be considered toxic.
::. Please
use rubber gloves (plastic disposable types will do too) and Wear a plastic
apron for handling them.
::. Sufficient
ventilation and common sense is required.
::. For
the extra sensitive types (allergies) face musk is an appropriate addition.
::. Always
wash the skin area contacted by the chemicals.
::. Do
not eat drink or smoke while handling chemicals.
::. Store
all your Chemicals in a safe area cool dry dark & out of range for
children.
::. The
containers of the chemicals must be airtight.

RULES FOR MIXING CHEMICALS ::.
::. Be sure that all trays and measuring
cups are CLEAN.
::. Measure
or weigh out all of the ingredients before mixing.
::. Mix
chemicals in the exact order in which they are listed in the formula.
::. Dissolve
completely and mix into the solution thoroughly each chemical before adding
the next.
::. After
the last chemical is dissolved, make up the final volume by adding water. PLEASE NOTE
::. Add
a pinch of Sodium to the water before adding the Metol to prevent
the initial oxidation that otherwise would occur.
::. The
following sections are processing procedures for resin coated
[RC] photographic paper, if used for fiber based papers the timings
given in the diverse sections will vary. So change and use according
to suggestions given with the selected paper in use.
::. Anhydrous
means "without water" and
monohydrated means that one molecule of water is attached to the chemical's
own molecule. Also remember that anhydrous and desiccated means the one & the
same thing.
THE SPOON FORMULAS ::.
While teaching the level 1 course at Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture,
one of the lessons learned was when things are not going easily due to
yearly
school budget
restrains,
space
requirements (one darkroom with 9 enlargers)
or
simply
too many students (40 at a time) to teach in a a limited timeframe. The
spoon formulas came to the rescue.
For the purist out there wondering if this seemingly silly style of making & working
with black and white darkroom dilutions ... is it worth bothering with ? hmmm
well when you are in a rush or simply don't have a fancy a weighing scale trust
me and give it a try .... as for me and my students they worked well, and gave
us quite pleasing
results.
MATERIAL
LIST ::. For
Processing Film
::. Developing
Tank
::. Gloves
::. Funnel
::. Mixing
rod
::.Timer
::. Developer
::. Stop
::. Fixer
::. Drying
line
::. Film
clips | Clothespin {for film to hang & dry}
::. Three
Graduates
::. Scissors
::. Bottle
opener {to open film cartridges}
MATERIAL
LIST ::. For
Making Contact Sheets & Print Enlargements
::. An
Enlarger | Lens | Timer
::. Photographic
Paper
::. Four
Possessing Trays { large enough to hold the selected print size }
::. Developer
| Stop Bath | Fixer | Running Water
::. Contact
Printing Frame or a sheet of Glass
::. Opaque
cardboard { used for making the test prints }
::. Safe
light
::. Print
Tongs
::. Focus
magnifier { optional }
::. Scissors
GENERAL FORMULAS ::.
Kodak
D-76 ::. Developer
Formula For Films
| Metol |
Spoon
Formula
|
2
grams |
| ½ Teaspoon |
| Sodium
Sulfite |
4
Tablespoon + 1 Teaspoon |
100
grams |
| Hydroquinone |
1 ½ Teaspoon |
5
grams |
| Borax |
½ Teaspoon |
2
grams |
PLEASE
NOTE ::.
::. Add
chemicals to 700 ml of clean water in the given order, adding one chemical
at
a time mixing it well before adding the next in line. Finally add more
water to bring the developer level to 1000 ml {1 liter }
::. For
the correct agitation, dilution and temperature follow the instructions
enclosed in the film box or check out the chart given below. For the
correct measurement of the spoon formula level the spoon ,unless otherwise
specified.
Kodak
D-72 ::. Universal
Paper Developer
::. Similar
to Dektol
::. To
Mix Use 1 : 2 = 1 part developer 2 parts water
::. Regular
and Spoon Formula
| Metol |
Spoon
Formula |
3
grams |
| 1
Teaspoon {heaped} |
| Sodium
Sulfite |
6
Teaspoons |
45
grams |
| Hydroquinone |
4
Teaspoons |
12
grams |
| Sodium
Carbonate |
16
Teaspoons |
80
grams |
| Potassium
Bromide |
½ Teaspoon |
2
grams |
PLEASE NOTE ::.
::. Add
Chemicals to 700 ml of clean water in the given order ,adding one
chemical at a time mixing it well before adding the next in line. Finally
add
more water to bring the developer level to 1000 ml .
::. Dilution
may vary from 1:1 to 1:4 depending upon the contrast and image
tone essential.
Normal dilution is 1:2 . For the correct time read instructions given inside
the photographic paper package.
STOP
BATH Kodak
SB-1
| Water |
32
oz 1 Liter |
| Acetic
Acid |
28%
1 ½ fl oz 48 ml |
Stop Bath
is a mild solution of acetic acid that's been diluted in water. Used
in film and paper processing to halt the development process and extend
the life of the fixing bath. To make 28% acetic acid from glacial acetic
acid ,dilute 3 parts of acetic acid with 8 parts of water. Rinse
Film for 30 seconds & Prints for at least 15 seconds .
FIXER ::. PLAIN HYPO
| Water |
64
oz 2 liters |
| Sodium
Thiosulfate {HYPO} |
16
oz 480 grams |
The
Spoon Formula for this is an approximate 27 Table Spoons to make
2 liters of FIXER {HYPO}
Fixer
to be used undiluted for film and paper according to their recommended
timings. A plain Hypo Bath can be used to fix a print in 30 seconds .However
it has poor keeping qualities and must be used with an acid stop bath
or staining will occur. Do not keep a used plain hypo bath overnight.
Various Black and White Films Developing
instructions with Kodak D-76
Agitation ::.
Wherever possible times have been listed which rely on the standard
agitation technique of ten seconds [three inversions] per minute.
Even though it's best
to check instructions written inside the film box . For the assorted B & W
film brands.
ILFORD
FP4+ ::. All
times are for 20°C {68°} unless stated
| DEVELOPER |
ISO |
TIME
IN MINUTES |
| D-76 |
50 |
5 |
| D-76 |
125 |
6 |
| D-76 |
200 |
8 |
| D-76 {1+1} |
50 |
7 |
| D-76
{1+1} |
125 |
8 |
| D-76
{1+1} |
200 |
12 |
| D-76
{1+3} |
50 |
15 |
| D-76
{1+3} |
125 |
18 |
ILFORD
HP5+ ::. All
times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated
| DEVELOPER |
ISO |
TIME
IN MINUTES |
| D-76 |
400 |
7
- 1/2 |
| D-76 |
800 |
10
- 1/2 |
| D-76 |
1600 |
14 |
| D-76
{1+1} |
400 |
13 |
| D-76
{1+1} |
800 |
16
- 1/2 |
| D-76
{1+3} |
400 |
20 |
ILFORD
PAN F+ ::. All
times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated
| DEVELOPER |
ISO |
TIME
IN MINUTES |
| D-76 |
25
| 50 |
6
- 1/2 |
| D-76 {1+1} |
25
| 50 |
8
- 1/2 |
| D-76
{1+3} |
25 |
14 |
| D-76
{1+3} |
50 |
15 |
KODAK
TMAX 100 ::. All
times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated
| DEVELOPER |
ISO |
TIME
IN MINUTES |
| D-76 |
100 |
200 |
6 - 1/2 |
| D-76 |
400
PUSH PROCESSING |
8
- 1/4 |
| D-76
{1+1} |
100
| 200 |
9
- 1/2 |
KODAK
TMAX 400 ::. All
times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated
| DEVELOPER |
ISO |
TIME
IN MINUTES |
| D-76 |
400
| 800 |
8 |
| D-76 |
1600
PUSH
PROCESSING |
10 -
1/2 |
| D-76
{1+1} |
400
| 800 |
12 -
1/2 |
KODAK
TMAX P3200 ::. All
times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated
| DEVELOPER |
ISO |
TIME
IN MINUTES |
| D-76 |
3200 |
14 |
| D-76 |
3200 |
10 -
1/2 {24°C} |
| D-76 |
6400
PUSH
PROCESSING |
11 -
1/2 {24°C} |
KODAK
TRI-X ::. All
times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated
| DEVELOPER |
ISO |
TIME
IN MINUTES |
| D-76 |
400 |
8 |
| D-76 |
1600 |
13 |
| D-76
{1+1} |
400 |
10
- 11 |
STEPS
TO BLACK AND WHITE FILM DEVELOPMENT ::.
The
following procedure is for standard black & white negative film development.
Easy simple steps to follow for a beginner that that have not changed
much over the past several years. Although there has been improvement & variety
in the films & chemicals that keep getting introduced intermittently.
Roll possessing in a developing tank still has these basic steps in
use which may have different temperature |timing |chemicals. The fundamental
procedure remains virtually the same. Prepare the chemicals and bring
temperature to the suggested level before starting the processing.
Pour the developer into a measuring container {Graduates} containing
enough water and developer combination to make up the total quantity
needed 300ml for one film, 600ml for two film. To keep temperatures
constant place the containers - Developer | Stop | Fixer - in a tray
water bath.
01 ::. Load
the film into the developing tank. This must be done in complete darkness
to avoid fogging. Wind the film onto
the spiral by twisting one side of the
spiral back and forth . If the film jams remove it from the spiral and start
again .When the film is wound cut off the film spool .Place the lid on the
tank. Now turn the lights on and carry out the remaining steps.
02 ::. Set
the timer for the developer time. Pour the Developer solution into
the tank and start the timer. Remember that the ideal temperature for
film development
is 20°C [68ºF], and each manufacturer will recommend a certain development
time at this temperature. Note that the "correct" development time
may be different than the manufacturer's recommended time due to your individual
circumstances and liking. A water
pre-bath for one minute of constant agitation [see step 3] may be done
prior to development to wet the film and bring it up to developing
temperature. A pre-bath ensures more even development and can also
ease some agitation problems because the developer is more readily
absorbed into the water-softened emulsion.
03 ::. Next
Agitate the tank for the total development time recommend for the film
in tank. For the first 30 seconds, agitate continuously. Then agitate 7 or
8 times every 30 seconds thereafter. Agitate by gently turning the tank upside
down while rotating it . Tap the tank after each agitation to dislodge any
air bubbles. You should get about 7 or 8 agitation's for every 10 seconds.
Vigorous or more frequent agitation will lead to increased contrast and possibly
uneven development; too little or no agitation can yield uneven development,
streaks and decreased contrast [With some films, the manufacturer may recommend
more or less vigorous agitation.
04 ::. When
development time is complete pour out the developer . Pour in the stop
bath [Water + a few drops of acidic acid] agitate
- change with a fresh stop
bath or plain water agitate 20 to 30 seconds of this should be enough.
05 ::. Pour
in the fixer and agitate as with the developer for the recommended
time. Fixers can be reused for a certain number of rolls of film. As
the fixer gets
old with use, the fixing time will need to be increased accordingly. Although
with T-Max the fixer can be used only once. These times will depend on the
fixer and the type of film. With most traditional films, you can tell if the
film is under-fixed when the film base is cloudy instead of clear. Over-fixing,
however, can cause staining. Pour the fixer back into its bottle and wash the
film with the top of the film container off under running water for one to
five minutes.
06 ::. Remove
the film and hang to dry remove the excess water by wiping the length
of the film between two fingers. Wash film
tank and parts and dry them.
STEPS
CONTACT PRINTING AND PROCESSING ::.
01 ::. Arrange
your trays in front of you with the- Developer |Stop Bath |Fixer |and
water for print washing. Set them from left to right .Make sure the negative
carrier of the enlarger is empty. Set the aperture to f/8 or f/11. Adjust the
enlarger so that the light covers an area a bit larger than your paper.
02 ::. With
dry hands turn off the white lights and switch to safe light conditions.
Make a test print with a single negative[covered with glass] on paper. To
evaluate the best exposure time for the contact sheet. Make the test print
covering a range of exposures 2,4,8,16, seconds. Assess the test.
03 ::. Having
chosen the exposure make the final contact sheet print. Take a single
sheet of photographic paper and set your negatives on it in such a way that
there dull side faces the emulsion side of the paper, and the shinny side [numbered]of
the negatives faces you. The emulsion side of the paper is usually shinny too.
Once the negatives are arranged on the paper cover with glass .Expose the negatives
and paper for the selected time - Develop - Stop - Fix.
STEPS FOR PRINT ENLARGEMENT ::. THE
NEGATIVE AND PROCESSING ::.
01 ::. Place
the negative in the enlarger, emulsion side down glossy side up.
02 ::. Open
up lens aperture & focus the negative sharply at the required size.
03 ::. Close
down the lens aperture two stops & make a test strip giving 4,8,16,32
seconds. Assess the test strip for the correct exposure and contrast. Examine
the test strip in daylight conditions.
04 ::. Choose
the best exposure from the test strip and set the enlarger timer accordingly.
Make the final print - expose print & process. If the exposure time is
less than 7 seconds close down the lens 1 more f-stop. If it is greater than
30 seconds open up the lens 1 f- stop.
To process
a print place it [left hand] gently first in the Developer tray & Agitate
for 1 minute - drain the print and then with the right hand transfer
the print to the Stop bath agitate for 10 seconds. Again with the right
hand transfer to the Fixer tray agitate for 30 seconds - you can now
check the print with the white lights on. Leave the print in the Fixer
for at least a 1 minute .Wash as long as the recommend time and hang
to dry.
Extra
Notes Links ::.
KODAK
PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Films
KODAK Technical Publications
KODAK PROFESSIONAL Black-and-White Films
Processing
KODAK PROFESSIONAL Black-And-White Films PDFs for
Print {2.4 MB} | for
Web {425 Kb}
|