HOME ::. VIRTUAL MATTER ::. TECHNIQUES & FORMULAS ::.  
 

This section of the site is related to the course i teach at Indus to the 3rd Semester students. Overall all they can be useful to anyone interested in Black and White Printing and Processing.

 

 

OTHER RESOURCES
::. The Stop System
::.
Burning & Dodging
::.
Darkroom Diversions

FORMULA RESOURCES
::.
Jack's Photo & Chemistry
::. Photo Chemistry
::.
Pure Silver
::.
Darkroom Diversions

 


Film ::. Black and White film developer's formulas related to various film types.
Paper ::. Black and White paper developer's formulas related to various paper types.
Toners ::. Black and White paper toners.

SAFETY TIPS WHILE MIXING YOUR OWN CHEMICALS
::.

::. The chemicals in the various formulas should be considered toxic.
::. Please use rubber gloves (plastic disposable types will do too) and Wear a plastic apron for handling them.
::. Sufficient ventilation and common sense is required.
::. For the extra sensitive types (allergies) face musk is an appropriate addition.
::. Always wash the skin area contacted by the chemicals.
::. Do not eat drink or smoke while handling chemicals.
::. Store all your Chemicals in a safe area cool dry dark & out of range for children.
::. The containers of the chemicals must be airtight.

RULES FOR MIXING CHEMICALS ::.

::. Be sure that all trays and measuring cups are CLEAN.
::. Measure or weigh out all of the ingredients before mixing.
::. Mix chemicals in the exact order in which they are listed in the formula.
::. Dissolve completely and mix into the solution thoroughly each chemical before adding the next.
::. After the last chemical is dissolved, make up the final volume by adding water. PLEASE NOTE
::. Add a pinch of Sodium to the water before adding the Metol to prevent the initial oxidation that otherwise would occur.
::. The following sections are processing procedures for resin coated [RC] photographic paper, if used for fiber based papers the timings given in the diverse sections will vary. So change and use according to suggestions given with the selected paper in use.
::. Anhydrous means "without water" and monohydrated means that one molecule of water is attached to the chemical's own molecule. Also remember that anhydrous and desiccated means the one & the same thing.

THE SPOON FORMULAS
::.

While teaching the level 1 course at Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture, one of the lessons learned was when things are not going easily due to yearly school budget restrains, space requirements (one darkroom with 9 enlargers) or simply too many students (40 at a time) to teach in a a limited timeframe. The spoon formulas came to the rescue.

For the purist out there wondering if this seemingly silly style of making & working with black and white darkroom dilutions ... is it worth bothering with ? hmmm well when you are in a rush or simply don't have a fancy a weighing scale trust me and give it a try .... as for me and my students they worked well, and gave us quite pleasing results.

MATERIAL LIST ::. For Processing Film


::. Developing Tank
::. Gloves
::. Funnel
::. Mixing rod
::.Timer
::. Developer
::. Stop
::. Fixer
::. Drying line
::. Film clips | Clothespin {for film to hang & dry}
::. Three Graduates
::. Scissors
::. Bottle opener {to open film cartridges}

MATERIAL LIST ::. For Making Contact Sheets & Print Enlargements

::. An Enlarger | Lens | Timer
::. Photographic Paper
::. Four Possessing Trays { large enough to hold the selected print size }
::. Developer | Stop Bath | Fixer | Running Water
::. Contact Printing Frame or a sheet of Glass
::. Opaque cardboard { used for making the test prints }
::. Safe light
::. Print Tongs
::. Focus magnifier { optional }
::. Scissors

GENERAL FORMULAS ::.

Kodak D-76 ::. Developer Formula For Films

Metol Spoon Formula
2 grams
½ Teaspoon
Sodium Sulfite 4 Tablespoon + 1 Teaspoon 100 grams
Hydroquinone 1 ½ Teaspoon 5 grams
Borax ½ Teaspoon 2 grams

PLEASE NOTE ::.

::. Add chemicals to 700 ml of clean water in the given order, adding one chemical at a time mixing it well before adding the next in line. Finally add more water to bring the developer level to 1000 ml {1 liter }

::. For the correct agitation, dilution and temperature follow the instructions enclosed in the film box or check out the chart given below. For the correct measurement of the spoon formula level the spoon ,unless otherwise specified.

Kodak D-72 ::. Universal Paper Developer

::. Similar to Dektol
::. To Mix Use 1 : 2 = 1 part developer 2 parts water
::.
Regular and Spoon Formula

Metol Spoon Formula 3 grams
1 Teaspoon {heaped}
Sodium Sulfite 6 Teaspoons 45 grams
Hydroquinone 4 Teaspoons 12 grams
Sodium Carbonate 16 Teaspoons 80 grams
Potassium Bromide ½ Teaspoon 2 grams


PLEASE NOTE ::.

::. Add Chemicals to 700 ml of clean water in the given order ,adding one chemical at a time mixing it well before adding the next in line. Finally add more water to bring the developer level to 1000 ml .
::. Dilution may vary from 1:1 to 1:4 depending upon the contrast and image tone essential.
Normal dilution is 1:2 . For the correct time read instructions given inside the photographic paper package.

STOP BATH Kodak SB-1

Water 32 oz 1 Liter
Acetic Acid 28% 1 ½ fl oz 48 ml

Stop Bath is a mild solution of acetic acid that's been diluted in water. Used in film and paper processing to halt the development process and extend the life of the fixing bath. To make 28% acetic acid from glacial acetic acid ,dilute 3 parts of acetic acid with 8 parts of water. Rinse Film for 30 seconds & Prints for at least 15 seconds .


FIXER ::. PLAIN HYPO

Water 64 oz 2 liters
Sodium Thiosulfate {HYPO} 16 oz 480 grams

The Spoon Formula for this is an approximate 27 Table Spoons to make 2 liters of FIXER {HYPO}

Fixer to be used undiluted for film and paper according to their recommended timings. A plain Hypo Bath can be used to fix a print in 30 seconds .However it has poor keeping qualities and must be used with an acid stop bath or staining will occur. Do not keep a used plain hypo bath overnight.

Various Black and White Films Developing instructions with Kodak D-76

Agitation ::.

Wherever possible times have been listed which rely on the standard agitation technique of ten seconds [three inversions] per minute. Even though it's best to check instructions written inside the film box . For the assorted B & W film brands.

ILFORD FP4+ ::. All times are for 20°C {68°} unless stated

DEVELOPER ISO TIME IN MINUTES
D-76 50 5
D-76 125 6
D-76 200 8
D-76 {1+1} 50 7
D-76 {1+1} 125 8
D-76 {1+1} 200 12
D-76 {1+3} 50 15
D-76 {1+3} 125 18

ILFORD HP5+ ::. All times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated

DEVELOPER ISO TIME IN MINUTES
D-76 400 7 - 1/2
D-76 800 10 - 1/2
D-76 1600 14
D-76 {1+1} 400 13
D-76 {1+1} 800 16 - 1/2
D-76 {1+3} 400 20

ILFORD PAN F+ ::. All times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated

DEVELOPER ISO TIME IN MINUTES
D-76 25 | 50 6 - 1/2
D-76 {1+1} 25 | 50 8 - 1/2
D-76 {1+3} 25 14
D-76 {1+3} 50 15

KODAK TMAX 100 ::. All times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated

DEVELOPER ISO TIME IN MINUTES
D-76 100 | 200 6 - 1/2
D-76

400
PUSH PROCESSING

8 - 1/4
D-76 {1+1} 100 | 200 9 - 1/2

KODAK TMAX 400 ::. All times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated

DEVELOPER ISO TIME IN MINUTES
D-76 400 | 800 8
D-76 1600
PUSH PROCESSING
10 - 1/2
D-76 {1+1} 400 | 800 12 - 1/2

KODAK TMAX P3200 ::. All times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated

DEVELOPER ISO TIME IN MINUTES
D-76 3200 14
D-76 3200 10 - 1/2 {24°C}
D-76

6400
PUSH PROCESSING

11 - 1/2 {24°C}

KODAK TRI-X ::. All times are for 20°C {68°F} unless stated

DEVELOPER ISO TIME IN MINUTES
D-76 400 8
D-76 1600 13
D-76 {1+1} 400 10 - 11

 

STEPS TO BLACK AND WHITE FILM DEVELOPMENT ::.

The following procedure is for standard black & white negative film development. Easy simple steps to follow for a beginner that that have not changed much over the past several years. Although there has been improvement & variety in the films & chemicals that keep getting introduced intermittently. Roll possessing in a developing tank still has these basic steps in use which may have different temperature |timing |chemicals. The fundamental procedure remains virtually the same. Prepare the chemicals and bring temperature to the suggested level before starting the processing. Pour the developer into a measuring container {Graduates} containing enough water and developer combination to make up the total quantity needed 300ml for one film, 600ml for two film. To keep temperatures constant place the containers - Developer | Stop | Fixer - in a tray water bath.

01
::.
Load the film into the developing tank. This must be done in complete darkness to avoid fogging. Wind the film onto the spiral by twisting one side of the spiral back and forth . If the film jams remove it from the spiral and start again .When the film is wound cut off the film spool .Place the lid on the tank. Now turn the lights on and carry out the remaining steps.

02 ::. Set the timer for the developer time. Pour the Developer solution into the tank and start the timer. Remember that the ideal temperature for film development is 20°C [68ºF], and each manufacturer will recommend a certain development time at this temperature. Note that the "correct" development time may be different than the manufacturer's recommended time due to your individual circumstances and liking. A water pre-bath for one minute of constant agitation [see step 3] may be done prior to development to wet the film and bring it up to developing temperature. A pre-bath ensures more even development and can also ease some agitation problems because the developer is more readily absorbed into the water-softened emulsion.

03
::.
Next Agitate the tank for the total development time recommend for the film in tank. For the first 30 seconds, agitate continuously. Then agitate 7 or 8 times every 30 seconds thereafter. Agitate by gently turning the tank upside down while rotating it . Tap the tank after each agitation to dislodge any air bubbles. You should get about 7 or 8 agitation's for every 10 seconds. Vigorous or more frequent agitation will lead to increased contrast and possibly uneven development; too little or no agitation can yield uneven development, streaks and decreased contrast [With some films, the manufacturer may recommend more or less vigorous agitation.

04
::. When development time is complete pour out the developer . Pour in the stop bath [Water + a few drops of acidic acid] agitate - change with a fresh stop bath or plain water agitate 20 to 30 seconds of this should be enough.

05
::.
Pour in the fixer and agitate as with the developer for the recommended time. Fixers can be reused for a certain number of rolls of film. As the fixer gets old with use, the fixing time will need to be increased accordingly. Although with T-Max the fixer can be used only once. These times will depend on the fixer and the type of film. With most traditional films, you can tell if the film is under-fixed when the film base is cloudy instead of clear. Over-fixing, however, can cause staining. Pour the fixer back into its bottle and wash the film with the top of the film container off under running water for one to five minutes.

06
::.
Remove the film and hang to dry remove the excess water by wiping the length of the film between two fingers. Wash film tank and parts and dry them.

STEPS CONTACT PRINTING AND PROCESSING ::.

01 ::. Arrange your trays in front of you with the- Developer |Stop Bath |Fixer |and water for print washing. Set them from left to right .Make sure the negative carrier of the enlarger is empty. Set the aperture to f/8 or f/11. Adjust the enlarger so that the light covers an area a bit larger than your paper.

02
::.
With dry hands turn off the white lights and switch to safe light conditions. Make a test print with a single negative[covered with glass] on paper. To evaluate the best exposure time for the contact sheet. Make the test print covering a range of exposures 2,4,8,16, seconds. Assess the test.

03
::.
Having chosen the exposure make the final contact sheet print. Take a single sheet of photographic paper and set your negatives on it in such a way that there dull side faces the emulsion side of the paper, and the shinny side [numbered]of the negatives faces you. The emulsion side of the paper is usually shinny too. Once the negatives are arranged on the paper cover with glass .Expose the negatives and paper for the selected time - Develop - Stop - Fix.

STEPS FOR PRINT ENLARGEMENT
::. THE NEGATIVE AND PROCESSING ::.

01 ::. Place the negative in the enlarger, emulsion side down glossy side up.

02
::.
Open up lens aperture & focus the negative sharply at the required size.

03
::.
Close down the lens aperture two stops & make a test strip giving 4,8,16,32 seconds. Assess the test strip for the correct exposure and contrast. Examine the test strip in daylight conditions.

04 ::. Choose the best exposure from the test strip and set the enlarger timer accordingly. Make the final print - expose print & process. If the exposure time is less than 7 seconds close down the lens 1 more f-stop. If it is greater than 30 seconds open up the lens 1 f- stop.

To process a print place it [left hand] gently first in the Developer tray & Agitate for 1 minute - drain the print and then with the right hand transfer the print to the Stop bath agitate for 10 seconds. Again with the right hand transfer to the Fixer tray agitate for 30 seconds - you can now check the print with the white lights on. Leave the print in the Fixer for at least a 1 minute .Wash as long as the recommend time and hang to dry.

Extra Notes Links ::.

KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Films
KODAK Technical Publications
KODAK PROFESSIONAL Black-and-White Films

Processing KODAK PROFESSIONAL Black-And-White Films PDFs for Print {2.4 MB} | for Web {425 Kb}

ILFORD PHOTO Black and White Films PRODUCTS CATALOGUE
BACK TO BASICS -SPECIAL REPORT FALL 2006 ISSUE OF PDNEDU