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The Vandyke Process is named after the 17th century Flemish
painter Anthony Vandyke, due to his use of rich brown tones as the dominant
part of his paintings. Most acid free watercolor papers are a good starting
point, experiment with a range easily available.
FORMULA ::.
After trying some of the variety available to me in the selection of the
formulas decide on this one because of the long shelf life and the rich
brown tones. Surprisingly it actually becomes better as it ages.
Stock Solution A
::.
90 grams Ferric Ammonium Citrate
::.
250 ml Distilled water
Stock Solution B
::.
15 grams Tartaric acid
::.
250 ml Distilled water
Stock Solution C
::.
30 grams Silver Nitrate *
::.
250 ml distilled water

MIXING THE CHEMICALS ::.
Mix each solution separately. Combine Stock Solution A and
B with constant stirring then slowly add Stock Solution C. Finally add
another 250 ml to bring the mixed solution to 1000 ml of Vandyke sensitizer.
The mixed solution will keep well and long if stored in opaque or amber
colored glass bottles air tight. Store all bottles in a cool dark place.
Allow to age before using it for the first time (2or3days). Shake the
emulsion well before use.
PLEASE NOTE ::.
Wear gloves when handling Silver
Nitrate because it will stain anything it touches black.

PREPARE THE PAPER - DRY AND EXPOSE ::.
The emulsion should be applied in a subdued light area (UV
free) By using a metal free brush or a small sponge. Let it dry naturally
or you could speed up the drying with a hairdryer .The surface will appear
greenish yellow when totally dry (if and when it turns brown it is no
good to use). Once dried you place the negative on the paper surface followed
by a heavy clean glass on top (non contact frames users). The glass should
be slightly larger than the selected size of the print. Test for the correct
exposure time. Since they can vary due to the intensity of the sun or
any other UV light source you might have selected. There have been days
when my negative contact exposure time was one minute and at another time
it was about 45 minutes.
FINAL WASH AND FIXING -
FIRST WASH ::.
After the deed is done (exposure) wash
the print in water for about 2 minutes or till the water is clean and
clear
of any
milkiness.
SECOND WASH ::.
Fix
the print in a very diluted version of the fixer about a Tablespoon
of Hypo (Sodium Thiosulfate) to a liter of water; or more accurately
fix in a 5% dilution of Sodium Thiosulfate in water (stop before
bleaching) this
particular
combination
has worked well for me. With a paper size of 10" X 14" I
would mix a fresh fixer after about every 4th or 5th print that had
been
used in the fixer. This wash will darken the image to a pleasing
darker brown
from
the earlier
paler version. Also be careful not to over fix since this would
bleach out the intensity of the print, 2 minutes is normally good enough (Test).
FINAL WASH ::.
Wash the print in running water for five to ten minutes
next use hypo-clearing bath (HCA) for a few minutes agitate and give
a final rinse for at
least
10 minutes.
The image dries brownish and is permanent.
I have yet to find time to experiment with toning
these prints quite a few options out there will post my results once
done with experimentation on a new set of images. For someone already
interested and not keen on waiting here is a suggestion i read in an
article written by a friend Wynn
White which recommends using Kodak
Rapid Selenium Toner with a very weak dilution, mix 2
ml of selenium toner with water to make up 500 ml of working solution.
HYPO CLEARING AGENT
FORMULA ::. H
C A
::.
700 ml Water
::.
200 grams Sodium Sulfite

Add water to make a liter 1000 ml ::. HCA
1: 9 ::. one
part HCA to 9 parts water.
DISCLAIMER ::.
It
is the responsibility of the user of toxic chemicals to take proper precautions
to avoid intake. The author cannot accept liability for any injury, sickness,
or damage resulting from these processes.
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